Alessandro Michele’s spring 2025 couture collection, titled “Vertigineux”, was a bold exploration of history, art, and the overwhelming nature of infinite choices. The show opened with the word “Vertigineux” projected in red against a blue opera curtain, setting the stage for a dizzying journey through time and creativity. Michele’s collection was a testament to his fascination with lists, a concept he borrowed from Umberto Eco, as a way to either bring order to chaos or dive deeper into it.
The 48 looks in the collection were described by Michele as “pluralities of interconnected worlds,” each dress a tapestry of references ranging from Freud and Cleopatra to William Morris and pointillism. The show notes, a 200-page tome, were a treasure trove for those who appreciate the art of maximalism. Michele’s approach was unapologetically eclectic, blending quilting, ruffs, harlequin patterns, and even Maleficent-like wings into a single, cohesive vision.
Michele’s designs were a masterclass in sartorial time travel. A flapper-style gown paired with elaborate panniers, Surrealist glasses dripping with gems, and eerie jeweled masks all made appearances. Each model’s look was accompanied by a flashing number, a nod to the analog practices of old-school couture. As Michele noted, “The idea of theater is as important as clothes.”
For Michele, the couture process was an “incredible journey.” He spoke passionately about the painstaking handcrafting involved in creating made-to-measure pieces and the importance of earning the trust of the petites mains, the skilled artisans behind the scenes. “Even if I was impatient,” he said, “the dresses asked for needed time.” This attention to detail was evident in every stitch and fold.
The front-row crowd, including Colman Domingo and Yoona, was captivated by the show. Michele’s intergenerational casting also stood out, reflecting the age diversity of his eventual customers. As he aptly put it, “Time provides grace.” This collection wasn’t just about fashion; it was a celebration of history, craftsmanship, and the beauty of chaos.
